With the coming of the Manchus, the Chinese resisted the conquerors' attempts to force them to give up the old-style Ming  costume; some patriots indeed declared themselves ready to die for it. Eventually the men compromised, wearing Manchu styles  in life and Ming styles in the coffin, while women were left more or less to their own devices. China Fashion In the end, the Manchu  women's tunic evolved into the qipao, which was consecrated as formal dress by the KMT (The Kuomintang, the political  party led by Chiang Kaishek) in 1928. It is still relatively accepted in Taiwan, but after Liberation in 1949, the qipao  disappeared on the mainland, except perhaps for formal visits to other countries on the part of official wives. Although the traditional robe-and-vest has virtually disappeared, the comfortable Tang suit has survived, and  remains a formal wear choice for a select few. Originally, the Tang suit was a term foreigners used, in a sweeping way, to describe all Chinese fashion. In fact, what people have over time come to define as the Tang suit is something that was created in the late  Qing and early Republican era among the common people.  It is cut wide, with long sleeves, buttons in the front, and a stiff collar. The lines are simple and generous. There is no class restriction on the Tang suit; its enthusiasts can be found in commerce, government, and academia. Examples include the scholar Wang Chien-hua, the ethnomusicologist Lin Ku-fang, and the well-known businessmen Huang Jen-chung and Wong Ta-ming.  They find pleasure in wearing Tang suits for classes, meetings, and all kinds of formal affairs. Wang Chen-hua began wearing Tang suits 20 years ago. He says that the Tang suit is comfortable and easy to move around in. Moreover, unlike a Western suit, it is not open in the front and so keeps out the cold better. Moreover, the Tang suit has "personality." It displays an individual's character and aesthetic.  Yu Yuh-chao has "suffered a blow" at a number of international conferences. He is determined to reshape the  image Chinese project, and to encourage culture in daily life. Yu, who worked in the Ministry of Education  for many years, is strongly promoting the creation of a new national attire. He notes that modern national  dress must have five key characteristics: it must be comfortable, artistic, modern, suited to the locality,  and universal. He calls his ideal national dress shuya, which means "comfortable and elegant." Taking the  lead himself, two years ago he put aside his Western suits and asked a tailor to make a shuya outfit that  Yu himself had designed. He wears it to work and to give lectures.  So what is shuya clothing, that it doesn't lose the spirit of traditional Chinese culture yet conforms to  the needs of modern life? This March, the Council for Cultural Affairs and Fujen Catholic University, aiming to promote innovation  in national costume design, co-sponsored an academic conference and a design competition on the theme of  "Comfortable and Elegant Dress Suited to Taiwan's Local Conditions."